To celebrate his 50th birthday, my world traveller husband wanted to go to Greece. Gilles has been to over 50 countries but Greece somehow never made the list. I’d already been there twice, once in 1987 and again in 1992. In my memory, Athens was dirty and polluted and I wasn’t that keen on returning. I couldn’t have been more wrong. This time around, I loved the city and didn’t want to leave. This view from our terrace helps explain why.